We all know dogs are pack
animals. We all know dogs are closely related to wolves. Many of us know in wolf
and wild dog society, no two dogs are considered socially equal. There is
always an “alpha” dog that leads the pack, a “beta” group of dogs that are
always looking for their chance to become alpha, and an “omega” group which
are generally pups and other highly submissive members of the pack which
don’t really want the responsibility and risk of leading the pack. Each
dog, no matter what group, has a definite pecking order. Alpha dog is #1,
then there is #2, 3, 4, and so on until the last and most submissive dog in
the pack. The order sometimes changes, but for the most part it remains
stable. The higher ranking dog always gets preference to limited
commodities, and decides when and where activities, such as play, hunting,
and mating will happen. This system prevents unnecessary fights and helps
the pack work smoothly. If you didn’t know this – now you do. I guarantee
your dog knows the scoop.
So what does this have to
do with us humans anyway? Are we supposed to start lifting our legs and
marking our homes as territory and bite our dogs on the snout when they try
to take the best part of the elk we just chased and brought down together
with our jaws? Of coarse not, but simply providing a comfortable home,
feeding, and walking your dog does not automatically make you his leader.
For our purposes, we will
be typically dealing with one of two types of dogs that we make part of our
family. The two types are dominant secure and submissive secure.
A dominant secure dog
would fall into the beta category if he were part of a legitimate dog pack
and could potentially become an alpha. If placed in a human household where
there is no obvious leadership, he will feel insecure. To help feel more
secure he will try to take charge himself, deciding who’s allowed in the
house, when he wants to play, go on walks, etc. Owners of these dogs
sometimes have problems with aggression, bossiness, and unruliness. With a
clear leader, these dogs are very happy, assertive, and loyal companions –
ready to step up to the plate if the boss needs help. Occasionally, they
will test the waters of their human’s authority.
Submissive secure dogs
would be the type usually found in the omega group of a dog pack. When
placed in a situation with questionable leadership, they tend to have
different types of problems such as shyness and anxiety. Aggression can
sometimes be seen in some of the more fearful individuals, but generally
only when they feel there is not an escape option from a scary situation.
With a clear leader, that they feel has the ability to lead and protect,
these dogs are much more happy and outgoing. They are extremely tolerant of
strangers and children. Some lucky people have those dogs that just always
seemed to listen, even without formal training. It is a trait of a
submissive secure dog under clear leadership.
There is not always a
clear line between these two types. For instance, many pups start off as
submissive secure and develop more of the traits of a dominant secure dog as
they mature and some dogs become more submissive secure in their elder
years.
It doesn’t really matter
what type of dog you have or what kind of problems it is having… If you
want to help, modify the behavior of, or teach any dog any thing - you need
to create a solid foundation as a leader for that dog first.
A leader is not someone
who caters to a dog’s every whim: petting, playing, feeding, and walking
their little princess whenever she asks.
A leader is also not a
brutal tyrant: yelling, hitting, and using other forms of intimidation to
communicate “dominance”.
How do you expect a dog
to follow a push over who consistently allows that dog to decide when things
happen (refer to the first paragraph). At the least it will cause confusion
to the dog even if you lead in other parts of the dog’s life. How would you
expect that dog to trust that person’s ability to lead the household and
protect the rest of the family? Why should that dog obey that person, when
that person is already obeying the dog? That person clearly is not a
leader.
What about the yelling,
physical tyrant? Not what I would call a leader, nor would the dog. Dogs
do not understand that type of behavior as leadership. Temper tantrums are
a trait of primates, not canines. It only makes the dog fear the
unpredictable person inflicting the unusual behavior. Even if that dog
exhibits obedience and submission to that person – it is out of fear and not
respect for that person as a leader. It is very different. The tyrant is
often a source of extra stress to the dog which does nothing for his
confidence or over all well being. If the dog is shy or aggressive around
strangers, how is he supposed to improve when even being intimidated by the
one he lives with. The dog will be more willing and happy to be with a
leader.
Here in a list of
behaviors you should follow in order to communicate calm and confident
leadership to your canine companion:
Petting
Dogs need physical and
social contact in their pack (human or canine) to be truly happy. Wolves,
wild dogs, and other dogs in groups are constantly rubbing against each
other and soliciting contact. Although all the dogs may solicit contact in
play, rest, or other activities – it is generally the dog of higher status
that decides the outcome. He will either accept the invitation (on his
terms) or simply ignore the other dog. The “leader” will generally always
have a willing recipient to his requests for contact. This is the way your
dog knows it’s supposed to go.
So, even though it may
seem difficult, don’t automatically respond to your lovable and goofy pal’s
soliciting for petting when he paws at your legs or rests his head on your
lap. To do so will confuse your dog as to who is the leader. You should
ignore this behavior or walk into your dog to sort of push him out of the
way and resume what you were doing until the soliciting stops. Don’t even
look at those big puppy dog eyes! – Do what another dog would do.
Don’t get all upset about
the rules of doggy etiquette just yet – because you can pet your buddy and
you can both love it. Just make sure that you are the one initiating it and
have your dog do something first to earn it. Tell your dog to “come”,
“sit”, or “down”. Ask only one time in a calm voice. Petting becomes a
precious reward to your dog if it is not readily available and you will be
amazed at the difference in your dog’s response to your simple requests –
especially if he learns that you only ask one time.
If your dog has been
soliciting first and you REALLY want to pet him, wait for him to stop and
have him “come” about 1 minute after he stops or on rare occasions have your
dog “down” and briefly pet your dog. Try not to make a habit of petting for
extended time, since it will make your dog less capable of handling
situations without it. See separation anxiety.
Possessions and Play
In dog society only the
top dog has free access to all possessions. Anyone who has owned multiple
dogs in the same house learns that it doesn’t matter how many doggie toys
you put on the ground, if the top dog of the house wants them he or she will
hoard them and not share with the other dogs (unless it doesn’t seem very
important to that dog). Higher ranking dogs can generally snatch what ever
toys they want from lesser ranking, but not vice versa. Higher ranking dogs
will sometimes take their toy to a subordinate dog and solicit a game of
keep away or tug-o-war. Not having free access to these fun items and play
most healthy dogs will jump at the chance. Predictably the top dog ends up
winning the game in the end and walks back off with the toy. Dogs
understand, respect, and are content with these rules.
So what do you think you
are communicating to your dog when you place a toy box full of toys on the
ground for him to have free access to? Then, he comes and drops a tennis
ball on your lap and you throw it for him or he swings around a tug toy in
front of you and you go tug it until your dog is bored or runs back away
with it?
It is OK to have toys for
your dog and it is OK to play with your dog using the toys, but remember to
do it in a way that helps them understand the hierarchy:
The dog’s toys are really
your toys – you are just letting him play with them. Keep that mind set.
Keep the toys where the dog can’t get to them. One chew item should always
be left on the ground (that you are communicating isn’t important to you),
that your dog can chew on when bored or in need to exercise his jaws.
You can now bring your
toys to the dog to solicit play. Have the dog do a simple obedience
exercise first, then either throw the ball or start whatever game you want.
Whatever game you choose, just make sure you can win in the end. It is best
if you end the game of tug, fetch, keep away, or whatever else before the
dog gets bored. If you rotate different toys and games on different days in
this fashion, not only are you demonstrating leadership abilities, you are
also keeping your dog from getting bored of the same old toys that would
normally all be laying around the house or yard. It’ll be better exercise
for your dog and you can use them as positive motivation for obedience and
training exercises.
Detection dog trainers
use the same theory to keep their dogs motivated to work for many hours at a
time. Would Grandma’s Toodles the wonder poodle sniff all day to find
junior’s smack if the reward was a game of fetch which he can have anyway by
dropping an always available tennis ball on Grandma’s lap… probably not.
Furniture and Beds
Resting areas are
considered prized possessions in dog society, so the subject of allowing
your dog use of furniture and human beds is closely related to the rules
used for other possessions.
To allow Skippy the naked
Chihuahua free lounging privileges to all the same comforts as the human
members of a family will cause confusion as to who is the rightful owner of
these soft resting areas. When Skippy growls at the visiting Mr. Snuffy who
tries to sit on “Skippy’s” couch it might be funny to some, but it’s not so
funny when Mr. Snuffy is replaced with a toddler or Skippy is replaced with
Chopper the 80 pound hound. Even with a dog that is less dominant secure,
the lack of a leader claiming these commodities will cause an insecure and
leaderless environment.
Not letting the tail
wagging members of the family on the furniture and beds will definitely make
it clear that it is not the dog’s possession, but isn’t always necessary.
For instance, if there are no humans in the room the dog is not really
breaking any leadership rules in their culture – it is fair game. But, once
a human enters the room the dog should be taught to get off. If you really
want Skippy the naked Chihuahua under the covers with you because it is a
cold winter night and you just ran out of fire wood – make Skippy obey a
command first, then reward him with access to your bed with a second
command. When you wake up make sure he leaves the bed too. Just make sure
that it is clear to him that it is your bed and there is no free access when
you’re around and you’ll be doing fine. Skippy will respect this and it
will help keep him out of trouble. You will be demonstrating leadership in
a way he’ll understand.
Going Out and Walks
Just like when the alpha
of a wolf or dog pack decides when it is time to move to another location,
you want to decide when and how dog walks and other access to the outdoors
happen.
At this point you should
know enough to guess how this works because it all relates. Don’t fall into
the group of owners who believe that a dog scratching at the door or barking
at the door to go out is the result of your great training. It is just
another example of the dog’s great training over you. Fido thinks, “When I
bark at the door a human is to open it for me”. Who’s the leader?
Put your dog on a
schedule – whatever works for you, but stay consistent. Three times per day
is plenty for an adult dog to get a chance to eliminate. Fido needs to know
that he will consistently get a chance to go out, so there is no need to pee
in the house. Not responding to his attempts to decide when things happen
will reinforce your role as a leader. If Fido isn’t sick and he knows there
is a schedule you shouldn’t have to worry about any accidents.
When it is that time for
a walk or to open the door to the yard, call your buddy one time and have
him sit before you open the door. If the dog knows the routine and will not
respond to one soft command, walk away from the door and try again a little
later. He must learn that you mean what you say. You will not throw a
tantrum or get upset and you will not just open the door anyway or repeat
yourself because you must act like the kind of leader that dogs understand.
When on the walk, you
choose the direction. Don’t let your dog drag you from tree to tree and
across streets just because he smelled something interesting from that
direction. Make all the decisions and you’ll be fine.
Feeding
It is very simple to
communicate your leadership through a proper feeding routine. Not only will
this routine help establish a proper relationship – it will also help with
housebreaking.
Remember the simple
truths about the role of a dominant dog. You do not want your companion
telling you when and what he wants to be fed by falling into the routine of
filling the dog bowl when he slaps it with his paw or barks. You also don’t
want to experiment with different types of foods just because your
four-legged food critic is turning his wet nose to what you gave him –
falling into the trap of being trained by the dog. And, if you just leave
an always full food bowl on the ground you not only are missing a simple
opportunity to teach your leadership, it can lead to other problems such as
housebreaking and obesity.
Stay in control of your
dog’s feeding routine. Feed your dog two times per day about 12 hours
apart. The amount depends on the type of food and your dog’s individual
requirements. When it is the scheduled time – hold the bowl of food and
call your dog to you. Softly give a simple command such as “sit”. If your
dog correctly responds, then praise instantly and put down the bowl. If
your dog doesn’t respond in one command put away the bowl and wait again to
the next scheduled feeding to try again. If your dog is new to this, give
the poor soul another chance sooner rather than later – but not every ˝ hour
or so! The dog has to learn that he has to eat on your terms when he is
lucky enough that you will offer it to him. He must feel as if his
compliance to you is vital for his survival. If he doesn’t come and sit, or
whatever other command you ask, on the first softly spoken request he will
not eat and will ultimately starve. I assure you that I never heard of a
dog that allowed himself to starve to death because he refused to comply
with this simple exercise. Most dogs will not skip more than one or two
feedings before catching on. When you put down the food do not leave it
there for more than 20 minutes before picking it back up again.
If you are feeding the
right amount and following this method your grateful buddy will eat it all
right away, will have two consistent bowel movements at the same time each
day to aid in housebreaking, and recognize your leadership in this routine.
You can give treats
sparingly through the day – but it is best to take advantage of the added
value of these treats by using them as rewards for good behavior and for
training new behaviors.
About the author:
Over the years
Michael D’Abruzzo
has had countless clients who were not satisfied with the methods,
knowledge, patience, honesty, professionalism, or results of their previous
trainer or behaviorist. Many dogs labeled as “too set in their ways” or
difficult become the pride of their owners after working with him. His
reputation of being the last resort for many dogs is the same reason why
veterinarians and past clients just refer to him first.
For more
information on dog training, dog aggression and much, much more, visit
Mike's web site.
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